Skogafoss to Thorsmork
25 July 2017
My alarm buzzed at 530a, and I headed over to the falls to capture a few more shots. The light was a little better, but still pretty overcast. Actually made for some cool photos. I finally got packed up and headed out around 7a this morning. The Skogar Trail started with a staircase that climbed to the top of Skogafoss. And off I went following the river upstream. The first 10 or so kilometers were just waterfall after waterfall every few hundred yards. It was unreal; I couldn't stop taking photos.
The next leg was a short road walk on a 4x4 road that headed up toward Eyafjallajokull, a volcano that erupted just 7 years ago. The trek climbed up onto the glacier covering the volcano and through endless thick fog and clouds. I was traversing the stable skirt of a freakin' glacier on top of a freakin' volcano. Truly the land of fire and ice. And all of that with the epic backdrop of...nothing. I could hardly see a thing. Then the fog broke, and the weather started to clear. I was in another world. It was a complete 180 from the lush river and waterfalls of the morning. I began the descent toward Thorsmork about an hour later. The wind had been challenging since I hit the 4x4 road, so I was stoked to find a spot on the way down that was sheltered from the wind, offered views both back toward the glacier from which I'd come and forward toward the valley to which I was headed. My camera battery had died, so I plugged it in to charge and took the opportunity to journal and enjoy a short nap. I was still high on adrenaline and exhausted all at the same time. When I woke up, I just sat there for about an hour appreciating it all- the weather, the view, the intermittent solitude. Then I left, finally. I landed on the valley floor 30 minutes later and began exploring the nature preserve at Thorsmork.
Again, I found a spot to stealth camp near the hostel. It's a perch high on a cliffed-out saddle overlooking the valley, and it's awesome. I'm cowboy camping with no backup plan. The air is light and crisp with an ocassional light breeze. The air isn't thick with rain like it was last night in Skogar. Wow, that was last night. Seems so long ago. I've had an incredible experience these last 40 k's, these last 11 hours. It started overcast and chilly along the river above Skogafoss, then the thick, wet fog on Eyafjallajokull, then finally a bright sunny day as I dropped into Thorsmork. Grateful for the varied experience this trail has already offered and hopeful that the weather rocks the rest of the trip.
Kilometers Walked: 42