I arrived at the Canoe Center tonight around 8p where I met Kristen from Alaska. I've only seen half a dozen souls on the trail so far, though I'd expected many more based on all of the packs being claimed after my flight. I found more evidence of the trail's popularity when I saw the results of a study posted at the Canoe Center which indicated that there were 1,290 thru-trekkers on the ACT last year. It's weird that I haven't seen more folks. From what I see in the register, it looks like a few per day so far this year. Not too many Americans, which doesn't surprise me because I've never even talked to anyone in the states who'd ever heard of this trail. (Part of the appeal for me.) Even now, the trail feels anything but crowded. This shelter is 3 rooms and probably 24 beds; I have it all to myself.
Just took a dip in the lake to wash up, my own personal backcountry bathtub. Cold and refreshing. I was thinking about how much my feet hurt, then I remembered the reindeer I saw earlier today. It only had a half rack of antlers. I spooked him, and he took off. Looked like he was really struggling to run, clumsily galloping away from me, head swinging every which way. As I wondered what would happen to him, I remembered that my struggles are so insignificant compared to so many other people, so many other souls. Yeah, my feet hurt. And I'm living a pretty damn sweet life.
I've just cooked dinner, and now I'm watching a fire burn just a few kilometers west on the trail. There is a lot of smoke, but all of the vegetation out here is so small that I can't imagine it'll be difficult to navigate tomorrow. The walk today was well-trodden and easy to follow. Beautiful kilometers just slipped away as I passed lakes and climbed up into the hills. The latter half of the day was all along the shore of Amitsorsuaq. I'd actually hoped to canoe the lake, which is an option when there's a canoe available. Of course, there wasn't. I was bummed, but off I hiked without missing a step. The wind ultimately picked up, which would've made for a really difficult solo paddle. Guess it all worked out as it should've.
It's 1030p, and I'm about to crawl into a backcountry bunk. An actual bed. With doubled up mattresses. In a shelter. In the Greenland wilderness. I wish I had the words. Thank god for photos. Words just- they just can't.
Kilometers Walked: 42